Includes bibliographical references (p. [619]-654) and index.

Part I. A brief history of modern fashion : From prehistory through Byzantium / Abby Lillethun ; Europe to 1700 / Linda Welters -- From Baroque elegance to the French Revolution: 1770-1790 / Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell ; From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860 / Susan North ; The Victorian and Edwardian eras: 1860-1910 / Cynthia Cooper; The modern era: 1910-1960 / Tiffany Webber ; The postmodern age: 1960-2010 / José Blanco F. -- Part II. Fashion theory : Dress as an expression of the pecuniary culture / Thorstein Veblen ; The power of fashion / Kurt Lang and Gladys Engel Lang ; Written clothing / Roland Barthes ; The fashion system / Grant McCracken ; The dressed body / Joanne Entwistle ; Re-orienting fashion theory / Sandra Niessen ; Fashion at the edge / Caroline Evans -- Part III. Psychology of fashion : The fundamental motives / J.C. Flugel ; To the fashion industry as represented by the British Fashion Council / Janet Treasure and the Eating Disorders Service and Research Unit (EDRU) Team of King's College ; Hearts and masks / David Muggleton ; Shopping addiction: is shopping costing more than money? / Marilyn Clark and Kirsten Salerno -- Part IV. Fashion and identity : Is it a girl or a boy? Gender identity and children's clothing / Colleen R. Callahan and Jo B. Paoletti ; Sentimental culture and the problem of fashion / Karen Halttunen ; Men and women: dressing the part / Jo B. Paoletti and Claudia Brush Kidwell ; The zoot suit and style warfare / Stuart Cosgrove ; Invisible men? / Shaun Cole ; Subculture: the unnatural break / Dick Hebdige -- Part V. Fashion: space and place : World cities of fashion / David Gilbert ; Popularizing fashion in Melbourne, Australia / Sally Weller ; Fashion blogs / Sarah Moore ; Globalization reconsidered: the historical geography of modern western male attire / Wilbur Zelinsky -- Part VI. Ethnicity, culture, and dress : The highlander myth : Hugh Trevor-Roper ; The veil in their minds and on our heads: veiling practices and Muslim women / Homa Hoodfar ; Guayaberismo and the essence of cool / Marilyn Miller ; Youth cosmopolitanism: clothing, the city and globalization in Dakar, Senegal / Suzanne Scheld -- Part VII. Politics of fashion : Failed censures: ecclesiastical regulation of women's clothing in late medieval Italy / Thomas M. Izbicki ; The Calico campaign: prohibition of East Indian cottons / Beverly Lemire ; Trade policies / Arthur C. Mead ; Finding the moral fiber: why reform is urgently needed for a fair cotton trade / Oxfam Briefing Paper ; Sweatshop: a first definition / Robert J.S. Ross ; Not only Nike's doing it: "sweating" and the contemporary labor market / Richard McIntyre and Yngve Ramstad ; Feminism and fashion / Elizabeth Wilson -- Part VIII: Fashion and the body : Corsets in Vogue / Valerie Steele ; Nap time: historicizing the Afro / Robin D.G. Kelley ; "Material girl": Madonna as postmodern heroine / Susan Bordo ; The slimming of Yvonne Blue / Joan Jacobs Brumberg ; Fashioning the body today / Susan J. Vincent -- Part IX. Fashion and art : Art and fashion / Michael Boodro ; Fashion rendering / Richard Martin ; On the marked change in fashion photography / Olivier Zahm ; Viktor & Rolf / Andrew Bolton ; Shed, cathedral or museum? / Chantal Bévet -- Part X. Fashion, media, and communication : Fashion on the page / Christopher Breward ; Supermodels and super bodies / Jennifer Craik ; Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis / Kathleen Craughwell-Varda ; Hot couture: Brigitte Bardot's fashion revolution / Ginette Vincendeau ; Sex and the city in the British fashion press / Anna König ; Hip hop / Tricia Rose ; Selling culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the new aristocracy of taste in Reagan's America / Debora Silverman -- Part XI. From haute couture to the street : When Worth was king / Anne Hollander ; The dressmaking world / Thèrése Bonney and Louise Bonney ; Torontonian taste in couture / Alexandra Palmer ; Trickle down, bubble up / Ted Polhemus ; Secondhand dresses and the role of the ragmarket / Angela McRobbie ; Punks and pirates: the Costiff collection of Vivienne Westwood / Sonnet Stanfill ; Japanese street fashion: the urge to be seen and to be heard / Yuniya Kawamura -- Part XII. Design and manufacture : Inside design: a look at the method behind the madness / Katy Chapman ; Fashion sorceress / Linda Tischler ; The diary of a dress: Alexander McQueen shares the saga of how one of his inspirations, a Peter Arnold orchid photograph, evolved from simple sketch to production nightmare to a stunning gown fit for supermodel Naomi Campbell / Lisa Armstrong ; Born in the USA: the growing premium-denim market goes global / Julia Fein Azoulay ; It's in the bag / Dana Thomas -- Part XIII. Marketing and merchandising : Business sense: it takes a lot more than individual flair to stay at the top / John Andrews ; Return to clubland / Mark Tungate ; New luxury / Dana Thomas ; American apparel / Rob Walker ; Dorothy Shaver: promoter of "The American Look" / Tiffany Webber-Hanchett -- Part XIV : The fashion business and global economics : What happened to fashion? / Teri Agins ; The Islamic factor / Nicholas Coleridge ; Zara: the business model for fast fashion / Teresa M. McCarthy ; Four models fashion relationships / Simona Segre Reinach ; Fashion in India / Vandana Bhandari ; Made in China / Arthur C. Mead ; "Two for a penny" / Pietra Rivoli -- Part XV. Sustainability and fashion : Fiber sustainability: green is not black + white / Martin Bide ; Weaving a new future / Julian M. Allwood, ... [et al.] ; Digital and democratic / Sarah Scaturro -- Part XVI. Future of fashion : The evolution of the Chicago Fashion Initiative / Melissa Gamble ; Born to buy / Juliet B. Schor ; Aging and demographics: implications for the fashion industry / Claire Lacoste-Kapstein ; Luxury fashion branding / Uché Okonkwo -- Wearable technology / Lucy E. Dunne.